Campsite: A small field that a farmer let campers stay in, with a simple tap for water. On Google it’s called “Camping Zennor Closed until…”
Campsite cost: £10
Tip: There is a pub in Zennor called The Tinners Arms where you can re-full and eat which is 5 mins from the campsite. Also, there’s famous ice-cream by Moomaid of Zennor.
Having a couple rest days in St Ives helped rest muscles and generally feel grounded after my first three days hiking. Swimming in the sea is such a treat and I was grateful to roam around town browsing shops and eating delicious Cornish pasties.
I was getting used to the constant rain and in the end didn't mind
A rainbow appeared directly in front of me up in the St Ives hills
At that exact moment an older couple walked past with their son. I turned and smiled at them saying ‘a rainbow!’ Literally directly in front of us. They smiled and clearly understood my amazement. Drawn in from my enthusiasm they stopped and began to tell me when they had hiked the SWCP 40 years ago - they had arrived sometime in the afternoon in St Ives and couldn’t find a place to camp, so ended up finding a spot somewhere wild in the hills.
A cove not long after St Ives
I was grateful for the chat and the advice they offered. It was always nice to have encouragement. As the days went on I found it was common for people to just talk to you to ask how you are and where you’re going. This was the start of my love for long-trail hiking and one of the reasons why I love it so much. Coming from London, it was a stark contrast - an openness and welcoming community that I really craved, and one of the reasons why I continue to hike long-distance.
I was thoroughly enjoying myself even through the challenges and slippery path. I really felt like I might even go on further past Falmouth (which was my original destination) to Plymouth and started imagining doing other long trail hikes in the UK like coast to coast, as well as up in Scotland.
It was this day I met some friendly people I would see along the whole journey until I finished. I met a lady and her son from Germany who offered me a really useful strap for my bag; she was super kind and offered it to me without me even asking! I think she saw I was struggling.
I would be walking alone most of the trail but sometimes you would see the same people and have a catch-up about how you’re doing. You build a bond each time you see one another at campsites which adds to the community atmosphere you get when walking long-trail hikes.
I found a pub in Zennor, The Tinners Arms, sat and ate fish and chips. I googled a nearby campsite which consisted of a field owned by a family with a simple tap. No shower facilities there. It was really windy all evening and I learnt I don’t sleep too much when it’s windy as the tent rattles, but I was grateful for any rest even if small! I also learnt to keep the tent against a wall or barrier to stop the force of the wind hitting the tent. After I set up my tent I also met a person who was walking the SWCP from the start, walking a month already, and they had the larger tent of mine (Lanshan 2 Pro) so we bonded on that hah. I stretched, did some yoga and then it started to rain so I happily went to bed.