Campsite: Hellesveor Holidays, St Ives
Campsite cost: £12
Rest Days: x2 in St Ives
Tip: First part of Portreath is challenging with multiple ascents and declines.
I was still getting my bearing with this route and getting familiar with following a trail. I managed to get lost a few times due to my inexperience and probably not taking enough care with directions. A week later I felt far more experienced and didn’t need to read a map, instead following my intuition, common sense and the acorn sign-posts which is the official way-marking for the South West Coast Path (SWCP).
Between Portreath and Hayle Beach
Today was exceptionally challenging. The first part of Portreath was extremely steep and then descending about 5 - 6 times. Looking back, this was probably one of the most challenging days because I was still building up my strength and wasn’t expecting so many hills. Due to this experience I would now often check the next days route ahead so I could prepare mentally with what to expect.
A cove in Hayle
I also had to walk across sand dunes in the midday sun when I got lost! It was very busy with lots of families lazing on the beach. I felt a bit out of place with my huge backpack. Walking on sand is like walking in sinking mud. It’s doubly difficult to take one step at a time and you feel like you’re walking exceptionally slow. It was all a valuable lesson though as I became better at directions and reading a map.
After that, it was flat all the way to Hayle Beach and only a few miles to St Ives from there.
Very sunburnt but happy I made it to St Ives
I knew I was aiming for St Ives which I had always wanted to visit so that gave me the encouragement I needed. Also, the landscape was still stunning even through the challenges, and people were friendly when I asked directions. I began to realise there are spots in Cornwall on the SWCP where you have zero signal so can’t check the route. Since this experience I now use the app OS Maps and download my trail so it’s available offline.
It’s funny looking back at this time since I’ve hiked other trails in the UK and abroad and gained in confidence. The SWCP is generally really sign-posted and very difficult to get lost. Mistakes are how we grow and the challenge was worth it when I made it to St Ives.
I loved St Ives so much I ended up extending my stay at the campsite for a an extra couple days and got to swim in the sea every day! It was magical. I also highly recommend the campsite I stayed at as the facilities like showers, kitchen and laundry were great and I camped alone or sometimes with only one other camper.