In Summer 2024 I felt inspired to head out solo into the wilderness again and try a new, challenging hiking trail in the UK. I had heard a lot about the Cumbria Way trail, a long-distance walking route of 112km from the south to north of the Lake District.
Up high with beautiful views after the challenging ascent 'Stake Pass' - #35mm film
The typical start of the route begins in southerly Ulverston and ends in Carlisle, passing through many rich green hills and a tapestry of stunning scenery the Lake District has to offer. I couldn’t get the niggling feeling out of my mind to try this trail for myself, so I went ahead and packed my gear and planned the route!
In the heart of the Lake District, photo I snapped on #35 film
I knew the trail would take around 5 days to complete, walking about 20km a day, give or take a few miles, and as usual I wanted to go with the flow, not forcing a strict deadline of miles to complete every day.
Hills filled with heather flowers blooming in light pink, purple and white - #35mm film
For this reason I always pack my tent on long-distance trails, so I can pitch up where I like and trust my intuition. Of course, if I am wild-camping I always leave-no-trace and set off relatively early the next morning.
Beautiful views hidden between trees - #35mm film
For this particular trail you are passing through towns as you go so there are plenty of spots to rest, get some snacks, and refill water if needed. I did carry my water-filter bottle (Katadyn Water BeFree 1L, as well as a normal 1.5L plastic bottle), and always do so for hiking trails, just in case.
Much of the trail was easy to follow with clear paths - #35mm film
I ended up pitching at campsites most nights as I happened to be nearby, but I saw plenty of spots to wild camp along the route. One particularly rainy night I stayed at Elterwater Hostel due to flooding which I highly recommend staying in; friendly staff and a homely feel to the welcoming hostel. When you reach Keswick, I do recommend booking in advance or passing through the town to wild camp ahead, because the place was fully booked at local campsites when I arrived. I luckily got a bed in the YHA Keswick but it was the last bed!
Just me and the lush green hills - #35mm film
The itinerary I ended up walking -
Day 1 - Ulverston - Birchbank Campsite, Ulverston
Day 2 - Birchbank Camp Site - Elterwater Hostel
Day 3 - Elterwater Hostel - YHA Keswick
Day 4 - YHA Keswick - Caldbeck Campsite
Day 5 - Caldbeck Campsite - Carlisle, the end!
Any questions? Leave me a comment below and I’d be happy to answer any queries!
FUN FACTS
Start: Summer 2024
End date: 5 days
Route: Ulverston - Carlisle (112km)
Sleeping: Campsites & Hostels
Daily average walked: 20 Miles
Favourite Day: Ascending challenging 'Stake Pass' to stunning views!
Trail Feature: The route is catered for pretty well, as you pass through towns with lots of opportunity to rest and eat at cafes or pubs, with plenty of water spots too.
Trail Fail: Getting caught in flooding on Day 2 (although ended up a blessing stay at Elterwater Hostel!)
Tip: Book ahead for Keswick as it gets booked up quickly, or aim to camp before or after the town if you want to wild camp.
Getting to the Cumbria Way starting point at Ulverston, Lake District.
I came from London so caught the train from Euston to Lancaster, and then changed there to a direct train to Ulverston. The route was about 3.5hrs.
Packing and Gear List
As this trail is in the Lake District, I prepared for rain when packing! The Lake District is known for showers and cooler temperatures at night even in the Summer.
I have a full list of gear I use here on Lighter Pack but these pieces I used were my top 3 favourites.
First time using my new tent Durston X-Mid 1 Tent
First, was my new tent by Durston Gear. I had recently bought the X-Mid 1 and was looking forward to trying this out! I had previously always used my Lanshan 1 tent (I used the Lanshan 1 in the West Highland Way hike) and loved it, but felt it was time for something new.
The X-Mid 1 even though still light-weight, felt massive inside compared to the Lanshan 1 because it has two vestibules either side of the tent to enter and exit. This is great if one side is particularly windy so you can exit from the other, or if you need to organise your gear - cooking one side of the tent, and shoes or other gear organised the other side.
This is a trekking pole tent, similar to the Lanshan 1, which saves weight on poles but does mean you need soft terrain to peg down the corners to keep the tent up-right. As I knew the Cumbria Way trail was mostly soft ground I felt confident knowing I could set up this tent easily.
Katadyn BeFree water filer 1L
Second, my trusted Katadyn BeFree water filter 1L. I always take this with me on hikes, and filter water into another bottle or drink straight from the tip.
RAB Alpine 600 Down Sleeping Bag
Third, is my new sleeping bag by RAB - alpine 600 Down. This bag is a 3 season and kept my cosy and warm. Highly recommend this sleeping bag and has kept me warm in spring, summer and autumn camping outdoors.
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