Campsite: Coverack Camping at Penmarth Farm Campsite
Campsite cost: £15 - 20
Tip: From Cadgwith to Coverack is a series of very steep ascents and descents, get ready!
Tip #2: There is a Youth Hostel in Coverack if you don’t feel like camping.
Today I knew I only had a couple days left to Falmouth which was a moral booster. I was feeling a little worn out, I think perhaps as I wasn’t eating as much as I should and probably needed a rest day (also known as ‘day zero’). I made a mental note to eat as much as possible when I got to Coverack, as well as buy some snacks because I was all out. Looking back, this is something I have since improved on long-distance trail hikes, ensuring I have something to eat for breakfast and snacking consistently. I’ve also learnt it is better to rise early and set off before 6am if the weather is hot. Walking in mid-day sun between 12-3pm can be extra tiring.
A pretty little Cornish village near Cadgwith
The trail all the way to Cadgwith was pretty standard. When I reached Cadgwith I sat in a pub and had a diet coke for a little caffeine and some snacks. The manager told me the next stretch she once did and has never done again - it’s supposed to be as strenuous as after the St Ives part. I was feeling pretty confident and in good shape so I wasn't worried.
Thatched houses in Cadgwith I passed on route to Coverack
I discovered she was right. It was a series of very steep inclines and descents. It was mid-day so I was already struggling in the heat and was trying to use my hiking poles as much as possible to save my knees. At one point I did nearly fall backwards on the way up a very steep incline but got my footing and grabbed some bushes. The steps up were knee-high. I scratched my hands and wrists a little. I took a breather and paused. Generally I’ve been careful and haven’t had any mishaps yet. I can imagine in the rain it would be tricky to balance and I was thankful it wasn’t muddy.
Wild ponies at the top of a challenging hill climb, in the mid-day sunshine
Sometime after, I passed some wild ponies right at the top of a challenging hill climb. I was absolutely shattered and still had 6-7 miles to Coverack. I wasn’t sure if I could make it. One of the wild ponies came up to me. I hadn’t experienced this yet on the trail as traditionally they are quite shy and I kept my respectful distance. The pony came right up and let me feed them some dried grass. I absolutely love horses; they inherently possess an ability to just be presence. I felt this in that moment whilst I stood with her. I relaxed and felt incredibly elated, I knew the universe was encouraging me to go on. And just from that meeting, I did receive a new release of energy that followed me all the way to Coverack.
I made it to Coverack around 6pm when shops were shutting but there was a lively outdoor concert on. I bought some fish and chips and sat outside on a bench, people watching and taking in the local atmosphere. I really enjoyed my time at Coverack, everyone was really friendly and the general feeling of this town was welcoming.
There's lots of camping choices in Coverack. I found a local campsite up a steep road which had showers and wasn't too busy which was great. It meant I could get a good night sleep from less noise. They had plenty of plugs to charge my battery pack for my camera and phone. The showers were outdoors but it was so warm outside I didn't mind at all. I was really enjoying being outdoors in Nature as much as possible.
